Thursday, June 21, 2012

Day Three: Cincinnati and the Ohio River


This is one of my favorites of this trip. 

Day Three:  Cincinnati and the Ohio River


I decided to forgo the interstate and journey down Route 7, which hugs the Ohio River toward Marietta.  Marietta is where I spent four months in 1976, practically having arrived at it as my college of choice using a dartboard and a blindfold during the years when my studies took a backseat to many things at Darien High School.  I transferred to Syracuse after one semester at Marietta, having achieved the 3.5 GPA Syracuse required to make such an early transfer, which should give one and idea of what it takes to make the decision to move to Marietta, Ohio, and what one will do to ensure a move out.  My short visit yesterday once again made me shake my head in awe of how ill-equipped an 18-year old really is to plan one’s life (I guess I should just speak for myself, rather than dragging all the kids who can actually form an base of knowledge from which to choose a college into the category of “Clueless” with me).

On the way down the river, we passed through little towns like Shadyside, Powhatan Point, New Matamoras (wondering where the original was) and Steinersville, during which Parker asked me why all the cars were trucks and quite “junky ones”, at that.  I explained to the boys that most of these people probably worked for the aluminum plant on the river and one of the great ironies in life is that while these people worked so hard and had no choice but to be loyal to this one company that basically had the river and its people by a chokehold in more ways than one, they had very little to show for it.  Yet, there must have been good times rolling, since we saw many signs in each little town promoting the local Bingo night, or a Pork Pull Dinner, or Disco Dance Night at the American Legion Hall.  So all was OK in Fly, Ohio, where we stopped for breakfast, at the Country Kitchen Restaurant, which claimed to have a great view of the river.  Unfortunately, the architect of this little jernt must have been dyslexic because the only windows in the place faced the road, and the river could only be seen if you walked to the side of the building after you parked your car before walking in.  So, the only way to enjoy the river was to take in the vision, and keep the memory alive as we were handed nice thick vinyl covered tan menus, making our way to the rather small-formed formica booths butting up against the dark brown paneling.  I realized at that point they didn’t take credit cards and I only had $22. in one pocket and $2.40 in the other, but looking at the prices for “Babe’s Full Country Breakfast” or “Fran’s Special”, I think I was safe in knowing we wouldn’t have to be washing dishes (although perhaps there was a view of the river from the kitchen).

As we were eating, a young family with a little high-chair bound kid entered.  It didn’t take long for all hell to break loose, as the kid began crying and screaming over something and the Dad, wearing an attractive baby-blue tank top, bellowed out one warning, and then grabbed the kid out of the high chair by the arm, and dragged him out to the car, exclaiming to the child, “I told you if you didn’t stop it we’re just gonna haveta put you in the treck”. (not a typo)  Where I come from, putting a two year old in a steaming hot pick-up truck and leaving him there would be called child-abuse.  The Dad went out after three minutes or so to “git him”, and of course it did no good--now the kid was yelling even louder.  But I am absolutely sure he learned his lesson.  The sick thing was that I found myself rather enjoying this entertainment, not because of the accents and the outfits, but because in some odd way I thought maybe this was making ME look like a better father to MY kids.  Nah, I thought. My kids must think we’re on another planet, so this comparison has nothing to do with us.  My boys are smarter than their father anyway, reminding myself that I was the one who chose to move here at 18.

Oh, yes.  Breakfast for three:  $12.80.

First item of note:  Outside of New York, security isn’t an issue.  At Shea they search heavily.  At any of the three parks I’ve been to so far, there has been neither visible security nor any kind of visible warning.  I could have walked into Riverfront with a bazooka.  Which, come to think of it, wouldn’t have been a bad idea.

Riverfront Stadium, devoid of its history, is a God-awful place.  What made it even worse than it should have been was that patrons this year are being teased with the construction of the can’t-get-here-too-soon new ballpark that exists practically IN the outfield.  It’s so imposing that they took out the scoreboard to make way for the imposing cement of Great American Ballpark, scheduled to open in “43 games” as the countdown board between the first and second tier extolled.  I thought that was a working name for the new park, but later noticed there was a bank or something by that name.  At least it’s better than “Cinergy Field”, which I can only imagine is Cincinnati’s power company.  When one thinks of it, why on Earth would a local power company need to use the marketing power of having a field entitlement?  The product can’t be used by anyone outside the local area, and anyone IN the local area HAS to use the product.  I guess the brass at Cinergy Company wanted great seats.





While acknowledging that the imposition of the new park’s construction certainly casts a cloud over the entire aesthetic experience, the park itself is just butt-ugly, with the tiers painted red, yellow and green.  It’s like a small Shea Stadium, but to me it had absolutely no charm.  From where we sat, we couldn’t see the scoreboard, and then I realized that about one third of the stadium couldn’t either, since it was placed on the first base side way up on the upper tier.  The food choices here, although the cheapest of any park I’ve been to, were slim—very.

The hot dogs were placed once again in a foil wrapper.  If they’re going to do that, they should give you packets of ketchup and mustard, since to me it makes no sense to have to walk over to the condiment counter, which in this case was about as wide as one-third the depth of the cardboard food container they give you, so it couldn’t even sit on the counter as you embarked on the ridiculous task of removing the dogs from the wrapper (not easy, since you basically have to turn them upside down and shake them to get the gooey steamed bun and dog out) and then sticking them under the mustard squirter (only to misgauge the thrusting power of the thing to have triple the mustard than you wanted on this undercooked Kahn’s tube of muck).  I had to ask the boys to hold the cardboard container while I did the condiment squirting.  Only problem was, Parker couldn’t hold it because he was holding the drink that WOULDN’T fit in any of the FOUR cup indentations of the container!!!  How ridiculous is all of this?  No one’s complained?  No one’s figured this out?  All these Ohioans and Kentuckians are taking this sitting down?

Hot Dog ($2.75) Rating:  3  (I overlooked giving PNC’s rating.  It was a 10-equal to those at Shea.)  Shea serves Kahn’s too.  I guess it’s all in the preparation.  Scary thought.

OK, so after I had done nothing but think of criticism after criticism of this place, as the ballgame started and Ken Griffey Junior came to the plate, I reminded myself that all this comfort stuff wasn’t all that important.  What was important is that Junior’s Dad played here with one of the greatest teams boasting some of the greatest players in the history of this wonderful game:  Pete Rose.  Johnny Bench.  Tony Perez.  Joe Morgan.  Sparky Anderson was the Manager.  And of course, my beloved Tom Seaver, who, as it turns out, was featured on the front of my ticket.  That’s a travesty.  Seaver’s a Met, sorry.  Got that, Red fans?  He’s ours.  You’ve got zillions of players you could feature.  All we’ve got in the Hall is Seaver. Leave him off your damn ticket.  

The park oozes Red.  At least 60% of the fans sported red.  Even style-conscious women featured red, with taste—in some cases—as the base color in their outfits.

The PA announcer, to a New Yorker, featured a style that was quite annoying.  At Shea, the guy sounds as though he’s reading the paper and he’s being interrupted to announce the next batter.  “Now batting:  George Theodore.  Right Fielder.”  At Yankee Stadium, it’s classic:  a simple, yet perfect announcement of the batter and his number.  Here, what you get is something from the Nickelodeon channel:  “Now beeeeyatting for the Reds, Ken Grrrrrrrrrrriiiiffey, Jeeeeeeeeeyooooooooonior!!!!!!,” in a high-pitched annoying disc jockey voice that was so unbearable I hoped Aaron Harang of the A’s would chuck a perfect game just to keep those announcements to a minimum.

There was one fan to our right, sporting a plaid shirt and matching plaid pants, a black man having had just a few too many Bud Lights, who began letting his presence be known roundabout the third inning.  “Let’s go RAY-EDS” over and over.  “Who y’all cheering foe”?  He’d ask as everyone turned around to see who was cheering so loudly.  His wife (or maybe his sister), quite overweight and content to be eating throughout all his cheering, never once turned to him to express that perhaps he should tone it down a bit… it was as though she’d been listening to that in front of the TV for years and just didn’t even notice it.  He continued with the “Let’s go RAY-EDS” until we decided to “upgrade” our seat location after the sixth.  So tame--his cheer.  In New York, what I’d be hearing is… “Justice!!  You suck!!!  No wonder Hale left, you, you bum!!”  Here, a simple, “Let’s Go RAY-EDS.”

The Reds didn’t “Go” enough.  They took it on the chin, 5-3.  That’s four straight wins for the A’s, and four straight losses for the Reds.  But Red fans can take some solace in the fact that when it really mattered; their beloved nine swept the A’s in four games in 1990 to take the Series title.  It’s right there to see—in right field--the commemorative banner.  And that--is why we were at Riverfront.

Next:  Chicago.  Two days off from baseball (although we might consider a ride up to see the Brewers on Sunday).  Wrigley Monday night against these same Reds.  Too cool.      

copyright © 2002 Chris Angelus

 

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Day 2-- Pittsburgh -- My favorite MLB ballpark



Day Two:  Philadelphia to Pittsburgh.  300 miles

June 20, 2002

If all days were like this, I'd pull the stem out on my watch and want time to stand still.  Walking to, from, and taking in a game at PNC Park is simply a wonderful way to spend a night on the eve of the Summer Solstice.   My apologies for the following cliché:

Lost prescription sunglass attachments:  $80.

Four-Star Hotel five blocks from PNC Park procured on Priceline, one night:  $62.

Two Pittsburgh Pirate Hats: $32..

Six excellent Hot Dogs, One Crackerjack, two sodas, a beer and some cake:  Lost track.

Street saxophone player blasting out "Time After Time" on the Roberto Clemente Bridge in the summertime breeze after the ballgame:  $1.

Your eldest son's braces gleaming in the stadium lights after grabbing the game's first foul ball*:  Priceless.

-RCA

*  An 0-2 Kris Benson pitch to Eric Chavez, fouled back to the third base side behind home plate, first row, second tier.

Addendum, 10 years later:  PNC has the most spectacular view of any park.   The city skyline is right there, on top of you.  Having the Roberto Clemente Bridge is like the baseball version of the yellow brick road to baseball Oz.  (And it's yellow, no less).  Plus, the fans were extremely friendly and knowledgeable too.   It was my favorite when we finished our tour, and now having been to CitiField and the new Yankee Stadium in the years since, it's held up as my favorite ballpark.



  
June 20, 2002

Well, we packed up out of the Marriott, then left early. We rode, most of the scenery boring, but some was really beautiful. We stopped at a great diner for breakfast, and moved on. We finally got to Pittsburgh, (300 miles) and then checked in at the William Penn Omni Hotel. We left for the baseball game, (Pirates VS Athletics) by walking there, and on the way, there were homeless people, which was kind of sad. There were people trying to buy and sell tickets everywhere, which was strange. The stadium was PNC Park, the newest stadium. We went in, and the park was very clean and beautiful. The seats were amazing, and there couldn’t be anything much better. After the game started, a foul ball was hit up to us. Amazingly, my brother got it, which was his first foul ball in his life. But the thing is, if people were in the seats where the ball was hit before the foul was hit, no luck for us. The Pirates lost, 5-3, and we left. We walked on the Roberto Clemente bridge, where there were people trying to get money. We paid a saxophone player, then went back to the hotel.

~Parker

Day 2
6-20-02
We went to Pittsburgh today and saw the Pirates game. They were facing the A’s. During the first inning, Eric Chavez hit a foul ball in the stands…AND I GOT IT! I WAS SO ASTONISHED! I really don’t want to lose this! And think about the odds of a foul ball getting to you… Well, it was an exciting game. But at the end of the game, the Pirates lost 5-3. Also, this ballpark is currently the newest one. It looked pretty good. And while we were there, it had a scoreboard for interleague games. Looking at it, I saw that the Mets (my favorite team) won 3-2, and it was a tight game too. -- Austin









 




copyright © 2002 Chris Angelus

Monday, June 18, 2012

Day 1 -- Guilford to Philly

USA Journey, Day One. June 19, 2002 --  Guilford CT to Philadelphia PA—Approx. 200 miles.
While I’d been planning this notable cross-USA road trip for over four months, I couldn’t have planned a more beautiful day to depart. Making our first turn onto Route 1, I found myself behind a Bentley owned by Bill Miller (license plate: BL MILR), which seemed quite appropriate since this was a gentleman who was instrumental in the initial establishment of Las Vegas as a haven for Hollywood entertainers back in the 40s. This fact, I thought, was quite fitting, since Las Vegas will be our 15th stop on the trip. Mr. Miller drove his Bentley down route 1 below my usual 40 mph threshold, which usually prompts a grunt and a groan or an occasional expletive on my part. But even though I realized starting out a 10,000-mile journey at a snail’s pace wasn’t good karma, the idea of following a legend—especially with particular relevance-- overshadowed my usual impatience. At the first light, my friend Frank happened to be stopped adjacent to us, so I pulled over to bid a short “see ya”, and begin heading toward Philly.


 At the Thomas Edison rest area in New Jersey I pulled out my wallet to pay for our lunches at the Roy Rogers, happy to see they took American Express, only to find out within seconds that they can’t take an American Express I DIDN’T HAVE. Nice start. And at this rest stop, here’s a site they don’t mention in the guidebooks: In the bathroom I couldn’t quite get to the sink to wash my hands as I noticed a strange site indeed—an Hasidic Jew standing there with only his shirt on at the first sink as the typical summertime crowds scurried in and out of the bathroom. Scary site, let me tell you-- made even more horrifying when I realized he was washing his underwear in the sink. That was before lunch. Good diet plan. 
 So our first task in Philadelphia was to visit the historic American Express Travel Related Services office to get a replacement. Most people think Liberty Bell. I think about wasted frequent flyer miles. 



 With new card in hand, we did do the Liberty Bell, followed shortly by a visit to our first ballpark, Veterans’ Stadium. As we exited the cab and made our way to Gate E, the rains greeted us and stayed around for a hot dog or two, forcing an hour and a half delay for the first pitch. No problem when you’re enjoying the comfort of a very nice suite, and you’re the only ones there to enjoy it—for the time being. Veteran’s Stadium notes: Terrible acoustics. We never heard a word on the PA system from the rather comfortably done-up Comcast SportsNet Super Box, which made the game a little less enjoyable than it might have been, especially though not much happened of interest other than a .193 hitter for the White Sox slamming his second home run of the season in the fourth inning. So, it didn’t matter that we never heard his name announced. Hot Dogs: (Using Shea Stadium’s Kahns grilled babies as the benchmark of 10), a 5. Overall, a great start to the trip. No complaints. Nice weather for tooling around Philly… took some great pics, and quite a nice hotel, thanks to William Shatner and Priceline. Tomorrow: Pittsburgh. 

Tuesday, July 15, 2003

SF to Portland

NORTHERN WEST COAST

Pictures can often be worth a thousand words or more, so I will keep the words to a minimum and let the majesty of our coastal drive from San Francisco to Eureka to Bandon, Oregon, to Newport, Oregon to Portland, to Victoria, BC speak mostly for themselves.

Suffice it to say that while I thought the drive from San Luis Obispo to the Bay Area was as beautiful as it gets, I think what’s north of that is even better. 

We made it over the Bay Area and Golden Gate Bridges before 6:30am  

and began our winding route round about Muir Beach, CA.  The first 20 miles wind along some high cliffs, which afforded us incredible views back to the fog of San Francisco.  After a gorgeous farmland inland section, we found a great place called the Sea Ranch Resort.  I was amazed at how, not far north from San Francisco in such beautiful coastline, there was such a dearth of inhabitants.  The Sea Ranch came out of the blue and was quite a welcome and majestic sight, as all of us had grumbly stomachs after about three hours of coastal driving.  We passed towns like Elk (where I enjoyed my first anniversary), and Mendocino, which was having a huge festival, with streets crowded with tourists who certainly didn’t come from the south, because we felt as though we were one of the few cars on the road all morning.  






Fort Bragg was certainly nothing to brag about, but north about 50 miles or so, we headed a little eastward off the coast and through the beginning of the redwood forests on a 22-mile stretch of extremely winding roadway featuring turn after turn of 15 and 10 mph curves.  After about 45 minutes of this kind of driving, I was exhausted (we’d been driving for 9 hours at this point) and had an extremely strong yearning for just ONE STRAIGHTAWAY.  On top of that we had not too much gas left in the tank.  When we finally finished this stretch, we found our first gas station in 60 miles or so (this is route 101, remember!!??), which was an old style filling station with full service for the lovely price of $2.42 a gallon.  The Touareg took a few sips, but not gulps, and then we headed up 101 through the Avenue of the Giants, which of course featured some of the largest trees on the planet.  It’s a gorgeous meandering drive in and out of sunlight and full shade with plenty of opportunities to pull over and feel real small.





After a night in Eureka, we took a short drive up the Oregon Coast up to Bandon, Oregon.  Our reservation was at The Windermere, which turned out to be one of the great finds of the trip.  Certainly not luxury, but perfect for us:  A bedroom upstairs with two beds for the kids, and one bed down next to the kitchen… which had a slider opening up to the most beautiful beach view anywere.  Gigantic rocks were plunked right down on the beach and off the shore just a bit.  It was a bit reminiscent of the final scene from Planet of the Apes.  That 18 hour period we spent in Bandon was one of the most relaxing and mind-opening times I’ve ever spent.  I walked the beach all during the late afternoon, again with Parker at sunset… the air was so crisp and delicious anyone in their right mind would start to think about how to spend more time out this way*… As I went to bed late, the full moon was directly overhead, so I set my alarm for a ridiculous hour just to catch that huge white ball setting over the Pacific.  It worked, although I had to play around with my new camera to get the shots right.  They didn’t turn out perfect, but they’ll allow that memory to linger with me forever.  The boys and I then took an early morning walk, and then started back up the coast toward Newport, only to discover more gorgeous coastline.  This time the vista Gods laid it on even a little heavier with lighthouses and park after park of Pacific views that would make any artist squirm.










After this trip, my friend Cindy Tower painted this wonderful image she gleaned from two of my shots in Bandon.  One of them is above.  



Newport was more of a tourist trap than Bandon, it appeared.  According to the locals, Bandon's popularity skyrocketed after a PGA major event was played there a few years ago, and real estate had gone wacky.  Newport, however, didn't have that same cachet, but was still a fun place to bop around.   We had a low-key afternoon, and let the sun set on us and then enjoyed the wide open slider that invited the Pacific to lull us to sleep.  Much more refreshing than any Newport cigarette.  I guessed someone must have looked at a map of Oregon when naming menthol cigarettes.  We tried to come up with some other names that worked as well as Newport and Salem every time we passed a town.  Portland would be a good brand.  Hood... maybe--for the right market.  


I’d recommend our accommodations in Portland to anyone.  We stayed at a boutique style hotel in the trendy Nob Hill section.  It was called the Inn at Northrup Station, where there was a stop for the very clean and cool Portland streetcar system.  The room was done up on all sorts of limes, violets, oranges and blacks, featured very modern furnishings, a granite kitchen, and lots of space for us to spread out a bit.  I preferred this to downtown, as I could park my car easily, and walk right out the door and find coffee shops and great eating spots without the tourists all over the place.  Among all the tempting choices was a place called Muu-Muu’s World Diner, which was so Portland and had such a fun menu.  I sampled Karate Rolls, which were simply smoked salmon wrapped around alfalfa sprouts, with a dollop of some kind of sauce on them, to be dipped in wasabe oil.  As odd as that might sound, they were light and delicious, and we returned the next day for lunch.  The kids had one of their favorite meals of the trip, which was a smashed burger… basically it already had the fries stuck in with the burger on a long sub roll, and I had some incredible halibut in a red chile sauce which rivaled that which I had at Fresh in La Jolla.




Since we had a pretty nice layover in Portland, I had done a little Emailing in advance to procure some adult company… my kids are charming, but punctuating night after night of having family dinners with a date would be a nice break, I thought. Kathleen was a redheaded bellydancer!  Of course, that was a first.  While I had no clue what to expect (usually I do more groundwork before meeting someone I meet on the internet), she was a very attractive, fun gal with whom I enjoyed many laughs and good conversation at a great little bistro not too far from the hotel. 

I took my car in for its 5000 service at Ray Reece’s Friday Volkswagen in Portland.  Everyone was quite friendly there, even though the mechanic didn’t seem overly excited when I suggested that he’d done the first ever 5000 mile service on a Touareg.  I guess an oil change is an oil change to these guys.   Nonetheless, he explained to me how to get more distance from my remote door locking system, but putting the keyfob up to my chin.  I’m still not crazy about the fact that to lock it I have to be within five feet of the Touareg.  I want MORE distance.  We’re so spoiled.

That night, Parker and I got in the Touareg and drove into the hills of Portland to check out the houses and the views, which were amazing.  Most houses for sale had little flyer boxes attached, so Parker would scurry off and bring back the flyers on some of the hot properties to assuage the curiousity of a guy who all of a sudden couldn’t resist the idea of someday moving to the Northwest.  I think this is a great place, and perhaps after the boys go off to college, I might like to call this my new home… perhaps before.  One never knows where life will take us.  The nice houses with views ranged somewhere in the 500,000 to million+ range.  These were in the city.  My dreamhouse would be overlooking a running river in the forest with good access to Portland.  Again, just a dream.




We buzzed around the city late at night, passing the downtown music festival, which also happened to be sponsored by Volkswagen.  When we finally got back to our room, we conked once again.  Somehow, though, once again I awoke way too early.  This seems to be becoming a pattern on this trip.




* Well, so, reading this blog again 13 years later, I guess I found a way to spend more time out this way.  By now, I am very pleased to be able to be a RESOURCE for people wanting to visit all 363 miles of Oregon coast.

Friday, July 11, 2003

Rocks and Water - Oakland

Rocks and Water - Oakland

 Leaving The Highlands Inn is not an endeavor to which one looks forward.  I had set my alarm to go off at 5:30.  My usual philosophy in places like this is simple and makes perfect sense to me… better to exploit the little time available to us with waking hours than sleeping.  Thus, the number of hours of sleep is not an issue.  Although the need for Vivarin is, and I think to this point I’ve only dropped about four of those yellow little buddies in just over 4000 miles of driving.  That’s not too bad, especially for someone who has been known to nod his head like a bobblehead doll on the 12 mile buzz from Guilford to New Haven.

I suppose the comfort of the bed and the fresh Pacific air conspired to keep me in slumberland, because the early chirp of my Palm Pilot’s alarm function didn’t seem to faze me.  It wasn’t until 7 that I awoke.  I had visions of  riding one of the complimentary Specialized bikes at The Highlands, but as it so often does, my keyboard won out over conquering the hills of Carmel.  I was already three days’ behind in writing, and I’ve found some of the nuances get lost if I wait too long, and the days seem to pile up like Lucy Ricardo’s chocolates if I don’t keep up with them.  So I grabbed my laptop and sat down on the balcony overlooking a foggy Monterey peninsula.  Fortunately, my head was much clearer than the coastline was.  Thoughts and words flowed, and it wasn’t until about an hour and a half later that I heard “Good morning, Daddy” softly welcoming me from the suite’s living room.  It was easy to stop what I was doing, even though fully entrenched in the task, to jump in and spend a few moments hugging Parker and massaging his sweet fuzzy head.






  



Austin declared that he wasn’t interested in breakfast;  that he was still full from last night’s dinner.  So, Parker and I took the short walk to the California Kitchen, and enjoyed a marvelous breakfast overlooking the foggy coastline.  Our table on the rail was close enough to one of the outdoor heaters overhead, which took the bite off the 52 degree chill.

After finishing up more writing, I filled up the Jacuzzi for Parker, showered, and loaded up the Touareg in time for our late check-out at 12:30.  We were headed only as far as Oakland this day.  We had a game that night to see the A’s play the O’s.  Other than a little stop in Carmel-by-the Sea, it was to be a light day.

Austin opted to stay in the car and Gameboy, rather than walk around Carmel.  Parker and I enjoyed many of the galleries.  Carmel features some of the most incredible artwork, gallery after gallery, I’ve ever seen.  I saw one artist’s work that really caught my eye, Clifford Bailey, who did a series of abstract oils of people in sort of a jazzy setting, some blowing trombones, and some sipping martinis.  Once taking a look at the prices, it was easy to enjoy them for what they were and keep walking.  Parker found some xylophone-type instruments carved from wood that he enjoyed playing, while I wandered around another gallery.  I did come upon a pair of lamps that ended my four year passive quest to replace two lamps in my living room that I’ve always felt were overbearing in size for the 50’s era tables they sat upon.  It took a $200 discount offering and a nod from Parker to make my big purchase of the trip, which would be delivered shortly after we got back home.  Each lamp was handmade from wrought iron and crystal, with the shade being an opaque autumnal affair, signed by the artist.  Three rather large crystals that soak up light from the bulb drip down like giant water droplets, making them for art unto themselves.  I had no qualms or buyer’s remorse.  They were perfect (I think).


We left Carmel and the cool overcast temperatures and found ourselves in Castroville, the artichoke capital of the world.  A gigantic green artichoke and a sign “fried artichokes” were enough to cause the traveling Angeli to make a quick stop for these incredibly delicious morsels at The Artichoke.  When one sees miles and miles of a field of crops like these, and begins to fathom that that a vegetable like artichokes aren’t consumed that often by that many families, or on the menu at that many restaurants, one begins to get the feeling of how large this country really is.  While I am sure some were destined to be imported, still, this was still a lot of artichokes.

Given that it was a Friday afternoon, traffic treated us kindly on the Nimitz Freeway leading us to Oakland.  We were staying at a Holiday Inn this evening, which I’d chosen for its proximity to Network Associates Coliseum, where the A’s and Raiders play in front of some of the most passionate—and crazy—sports fans in the country.

Checking in, I was amused at the buzz in the lobby created by what turned out to be a 50th anniversary celebration.  All the men were dressed in white formals and white shoes, with the women mostly in gold.  Even the kids were featuring while suits.  Later, while scurrying to the front desk to see if I’d left my cellphone there (which was later found under Parker’s San Diego Padre hat), one of the daughters of the honorees was walking next to me, and flattered me by asking “Excuse me, you’re a man (glad she noticed), so can you tell me how this dress looks on me?  I’ve worked so hard and it’s my parents’ 50th anniversary tonight”.  So here I was in the middle of Oakland, California, having not been with a woman in too long a time (it’s always too long for me in certain regards), being asked by a rather buxom black woman who had obviously fussed for days on this, what I thought.  “You look FABULOUS… I mean it really”, I said.  “That dress is perfect for you”… She came over to me, her vulnerability seemed to wash away by a huge smile, and thanked me by proceeding to swipe the dandruff off my shoulders.  “Here, sweetie, doesn’t your woman take care of this for you?”


The woman at the front desk had told me that the ballpark was steps away, nodding as I asked her if five minutes was all it took to walk there.  The boys and I were ten minutes into the walk when we realized we should have been directed to take a left onto Coliseum Way, and had to backtrack in this rather odd looking neighborhood, passing broken bottles on the sidewalk, and one broken Jesus figurine (someone had really been let down, I suppose), and no one else at all walking to the game, which I thought was really odd.  We made sat our butts down in the seats as Tim Hudson threw his last warm-up pitch and took in the aura of a completely different stadium than any we’d visited before.  Network Associates Coliseum is a lot of things, but definitely two of them—wide and low--save for the gigantic structure in the outfield housing dozens of suites that most obviously was built with Raider revenue in mind.  I explained to Austin that this was definitely a pitcher’s park because of the unusually vast foul territories, which allowed pitchers to gain more outs and give hitters fewer second chances at the plates.  Because the stands are so low and wide, the announced crowd of only 16,000 on this perfect California night surprised me.  I would have thought close to double that number were with us.  I guess it felt like it at first, because the $30 seats I’d bought were in the middle of an aisle, which I usually don’t like at all.  This was no exception.  While close to the field, I felt claustrophobic.  I was made to feel even more so when a family that could have just left the set of Jerry Springer sat down behind us.  It was easy to notice them, because the nucleus of them was a gigantic and boisterous woman who banged my back and head from behind about four times before she landed with a thud in her seat.  She proceeded to massage my shoulders as she bellowed, “Sorry sweetie, didn’t mean to do that”.  Listening to her continue with her family with conversation as tantalizing as “I ain’t been here since before them seats was put up in that there corner” at about eight on the volume meter—non-stop—was enough to start my mind buzzing about to where we would be moving to escape this.  The odd thing was, as I turned to take in the family, we had one obviously retarded man sitting with this woman to her right, but to her left was her son, who was accompanied by his wife, and his end of the conversation was held up fine with articulate comments, nary a stray double-negative to be heard.  I didn’t get it, but it didn’t matter, because as soon as we were done with our mediocre dogs (a slight notch above the others on this trip, but still not approaching anything memorable) and our garlic fries—the staple at bay area games—we moved back about ten rows and found a small haven of serenity—three seats on the aisle with no one in front of us—at least for a while—and a little higher up for better perspective.





Once again, we were watching our third rather boring game in a row.  No runs and about five hits total going into the seventh inning—which was upon us like lightning—it only took an hour and a half to get to the seventh inning stretch!  That’s fast, and very unusual—especially odd for us since the Padre game was completed in just 2 hours and 15 minutes.  There was nothing rewarding to be gained by scoreboard watching, as once again, our Mets were wallowing in the loss column, this time to the Phillies.  I believe it was the fourth in a row, but am very glad that I am not having much to do with the Mets right now… I’ll just watch the trade talks in the blurbs I get on my automatic Emails, and take a welcome sabbatical from being a true Mets fan again this summer.  Maybe if I stop taking these trips they’ll fare better, I thought.  I wondered if Art Howe would rather be me, in Network Associates Coliseum right now, but as the usher pointed out in our discussion, he really had no choice. 

I found most of the entertainment in the crowd, which featured many true fanatics, often wearing all green and yellow.  A’s fans were true fans, even if most of them were lined up by the thousands waiting for beer out in the breezeway.  My eyes found about four female fans, all nudgy and smoochy with their boyfriends, who were simply standouts among the relatively disheveled and blue-collar crowd.  Very laid-back California, but with an attitude.

I had asked the usher about getting a cab back to the hotel, and he directed me to security.  When I asked the cops at security about whether it was safe to walk back to the hotel, they told me I should definitely not attempt that walk in the dark, and that would could catch a cab at the BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) station beyond center field.



In the eight inning, the A’s finally got something going.  With a man on second, Terrence Long nailed a shot to the right field corner and scored on a throwing error by the cut off man trying to gun down Ramon Hernandez at the plate.  When the Geronimo Gil was tackled by Hernandez, the ball continued beyond him for what seemed like miles just to the right of the Orioles’ dugout, allowing Long to score all the way from second.  The people in front of us thought it was an inside the park home run, but alas, this is not little league, and it was scored a double and a two base error on Melvin Mora, the shortstop.  I might point out that Melvin Mora is now leading the American League in hitting, and was basically given to the Orioles two years ago by the Mets in exchange for borrowing Mike Bordick to fill in for Rey Ordonez for a couple of months.  Bordick made no impact whatsoever on the Mets.  Steve Phillips should never work in baseball again.  Maybe we should sick an A’s/Raiders fan on him.

The cops had made it sound as though there were going to be lines of cabs waiting at the BART station.  We only saw one, and he was across a busy street.  Parker pointed out an off-duty cab, and I waved him down.  He asked us if our destination was close, which I answered in the affirmative.  As we sped away, I wondered whythe the meter went up in odd increments (we were at $2.24 after a block, and as we made a right turn onto an even bleaker street, Austin quickly pointed out that it was 24 cents for each 36 seconds, and 24 cents for each quarter mile.  As we discussed whether that was a “whichever comes first” scenario (far be it from the cab driver to explain the terms), we realized we were come up on a railroad overpass, with flashing gate down, only to be staring at a STOPPED freight train.  After two cars in front of us [TICK] pulled U-turns and sped away, I suggested to the driver [TICK] that he do the same.  He refused, saying that [TICK] the only way back was [TICK] by the stadium and into the [TICK] traffic there—that this was a better idea—to wait here, and apparently decide between what was more rewarding, wondering when a stopped freight train was going to move, or play the “how far will the meter go?” game in which I was to be the only loser in this fixed contest.

After about four dollars, the train began a very slow lumber to the left, slowly gaining speed.  We should have counted the cars, but all I could think of was this was the longest freight train we’d seen on this trip.  We’d passed quite a few, and while it would have been fun to see some of the two mile long ones we saw last year in the middle of Nebraska, this wasn’t the moment to spot it.  After another few bucks, the driver now decided to display his loyalty to his customers by passing the Toyota on the left over the tracks, scoffing at at the Toyota driver’s pace as we began a Bullitt-type ride back to the Holiday Inn. 

We paid the fare, which ended up being more than parking in the easy lot at the park would have been.

Walking through the lobby of the hotel, I spotted golden-dressed gal from before, and noted a very puzzled Parker as he watched me ask her how the dress worked out.  She grabbed me, obviously very loose after three hours of anniversary partying, and began to dance with me right there on the Holiday Inn carpet.  Her cronies, probably just as loose as she was, didn’t notice this relatively bizarre scene.

A few steps, and a well-wishing nod, and I gracefully bowed out.  Parker and I were on our way back to our room.  He thinks his Dad is nuts.